By 5:15pm all the prep is done. Every surface is spotless and ready for the evening’s service ahead. It feels like the calm before the storm, but something tells me Simon and his team don’t weather too many cyclones.

— My sister Emily spends a day with Simon Wright, head chef and owner of Auckland’s best restaurant, The French Café.

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Written and designed by Matthew Buchanan. Colophon. Please give credit. Email